BirdsallTree Services · Leeds
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Tree health

Signs your tree is dangerous or dying

Fungal brackets, a fresh lean, dead branches overhead. Here is how to read the warning signs, judge the real risk, and decide when to remove a tree.

If you are worried a tree in your garden might be dangerous or dying, the quickest answer is this: look for fungal brackets at the base, dead or hanging branches, large cavities, cracks in the trunk, and any sudden new lean. We assess trees like this every week across Leeds and out to York, and the single most useful thing to understand is that a defect only becomes a real danger when there is something below it to hit.

The warning signs, at a glance

No single sign is a guaranteed death sentence, and a healthy-looking tree can still have a hidden problem. But the list below is what an arborist actually looks for. Several of these together, or any one of them over a target like a house or footpath, is a reason to get the tree assessed.

Diagram of a mature tree marked with five warning signs: a dead limb hanging in the crown, a crack below the main fork, a cavity in the trunk, fungal brackets at the base, and a new lean with soil heaving up on the opposite side
Five of the signs an arborist looks for first
SignWhy it matters
Fungal brackets or conks at the base or on the trunkCan indicate root or butt rot decaying the wood that holds the tree up
Dead or hanging branches (“widowmakers”)Can drop without warning, especially in wind
Large cavities or hollowingReduced wood means reduced strength in the trunk or a main limb
Cracks or splits in the trunk or a major forkA sign the tree is already failing under its own load
A sudden new lean, with soil heaving or roots lifting on one sideOften means the root plate is starting to give way
Bark falling away in patchesThe tissue beneath has died, hinting at decay or disease
Lots of deadwood through the crownWidespread dieback suggests the tree is in decline
”Included bark” in tight V-shaped forksA weak union that can split as the limbs grow heavier
An unusually early or sparse leaf canopyThin, late or patchy leaf-out is a classic sign of a stressed or dying tree

If you can safely photograph any of these, do. A clear photo of the base, the trunk and the whole tree tells us a lot before we even arrive.

A species note: ash and ash dieback

Ash deserves a special mention. Ash dieback is now widespread across Yorkshire, and an affected ash does not just decline slowly. As the disease takes hold the timber becomes brittle and unpredictable, so limbs can snap and whole trees can fail with very little warning.

That brittleness also makes a diseased ash dangerous to climb, which changes how it has to be removed. If you have an ash showing thinning crown, blackened leaves or diamond-shaped lesions, read our dedicated guide on ash dieback in Yorkshire and treat it as a priority for assessment.

The idea that matters most: risk is defect plus target

This is the concept that changes how you should read every sign above. In arboriculture, risk = defect + target.

A defect is the physical problem: the crack, the fungal bracket, the cavity, the lean. A target is whatever the tree could hit if it failed: a house, a car, a road, a footpath, a boundary, a play area, or a person.

The same defect carries wildly different risk depending on the target.

  • A hollow trunk on an oak in the middle of an empty field is often low risk. There is nothing to hit, and a hollowing tree can stand for decades.
  • The exact same hollow trunk on an oak leaning over your kitchen is a serious concern, because the target is high value and occupied.
Diagram comparing the same hollow tree in two places: in an open field nothing sits inside the area it could fall across, so the risk is low, while beside a house the roof sits inside that fall zone, so the risk is high
Same defect, different target: what sits inside the fall zone sets the risk

This is why a good arborist never quotes a tree as “dangerous” or “safe” from a photo of the trunk alone. We need to know what is underneath it and around it. It is also why the honest answer is sometimes “leave it alone and monitor it” - a defect with no target may not need any work at all.

What to do about an unsafe tree

If you think a tree is dangerous, work through these steps in order.

  1. Do not try to climb or fell it yourself. DIY tree felling is how serious injuries happen, and a defective tree behaves unpredictably under a saw.
  2. Keep the area clear. If a limb is obviously hanging or cracked, stop parking, sitting or playing beneath it until it has been dealt with.
  3. Get it assessed by a qualified, insured arborist. A proper inspection tells you whether the tree needs work, and how urgently. Our tree survey and inspection service is built for exactly this.
  4. Plan the work rather than wait for a failure. A controlled takedown or prune is safer, tidier and cheaper than an emergency call-out after a limb has already come down on the shed.

The pattern to avoid is the classic one: a known problem, ignored through a calm summer, that becomes a 2am emergency in the first big autumn storm. Planned is always cheaper than emergency.

Not sure how bad it is

Send us a photo and we'll give you an honest read

If a tree is worrying you, WhatsApp us a photo of the base, the trunk and the whole tree, or book a free site visit. We'll tell you straight whether it needs work or can safely be left alone.

If the tree is protected

A tree being dangerous does not automatically mean you can remove it without permission. If it has a Tree Preservation Order (TPO) or stands in a conservation area, most work still needs written consent from the council.

There is an exemption for a tree that is dead, or that presents an immediate risk of serious harm. But the exemption is narrow and the burden of proof sits with you, so do not rely on it lightly. According to the government’s guidance on tree preservation orders and trees in conservation areas, you should give the council notice and only carry out the minimum work needed to remove the danger.

In practice that means: photograph and document the defect thoroughly before any work, keep that evidence, and tell the council (Leeds City Council or City of York Council) first wherever it is safe to wait. Our guide on tree preservation orders explains the process, and you can run a quick check on our TPO checker.

How Birdsall can help across Leeds and York

Birdsall Tree Services assesses trees across Leeds and out to York and Selby. Established in 2012, we carry £5m public liability insurance and hold NPTC Level 2 (CS30/CS31/CS38), working to ARB Approved standards.

A site visit is free. We will give you an honest view, and that genuinely includes telling you when a tree can safely be left alone rather than talking you into work you do not need. If it does need attention, whether that is a single prune, a full takedown, or a same-week emergency, you get a free written quote first.

If a tree is worrying you, tell us about your tree and we’ll take a look. If a tree has already come down or split in a storm, read what to do when a tree comes down first, and our emergency tree service can get to you fast.

Questions

Quick answers

How do I know if my tree is dangerous?
Look for fungal brackets at the base or on the trunk, dead or hanging branches, large cavities, cracks in the trunk or a main fork, and a sudden new lean with soil lifting on one side. One sign on its own is not always serious, but several together, or any defect hanging over a house, path or road, means you should get it assessed by a qualified arborist.
Do I need permission to remove a dangerous tree?
Usually yes. If the tree has a Tree Preservation Order or is in a conservation area, most work needs written council consent. There is an exemption for a tree that is dead or presents an immediate risk of serious harm, but the burden of proof sits with you. Photograph the defect, keep evidence, and tell the council before or as soon as possible after the work. When in doubt, ask them first.
Can a dead tree be left standing?
Sometimes. A dead tree in the middle of a field, well away from people and property, can be valuable habitat and may be left as standing deadwood. The problem is position. A dead tree over a garden, path, road or boundary is a target waiting to be hit, so it should be assessed and usually removed or made safe.
Who is responsible if my tree falls?
As the tree owner you have a duty of care to keep it in a reasonable condition. If your tree was visibly defective and you did nothing, you could be liable for damage it causes to a neighbour or the highway. A documented inspection helps show you acted reasonably. Our guide on neighbours and trees covers the boundary side of this in more detail.
How much does it cost to remove a dangerous tree?
It depends on size, access and whether it is a planned job or an emergency. A planned takedown is almost always cheaper than an out-of-hours call-out after a failure. Our tree surgery cost guide gives general UK guide ranges, and a free site visit gets you a firm written quote.

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